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GETTING AROUND |
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Be aware that Kenya's minibuses (known as matatus), and to a lesser
extent buses, have a bad safety record and certain companies are worse
than others. Among bus companies, Tawfiq and the associated firms of
Takrim and Interstate 2000 are notorious for frequent crashes, while
matatu routes especially prone to crashes include Nairobi-Meru and
Nairobi-Mombasa. The most dangerous matatus are those billed as "express"
(they mean it). Buses are always safer if you have the choice, and
Akamba has the best safety record among bus companies. If you feel
unsafe, don't hesitate to ask to get out of the vehicle and demand a
partial refund - which will usually be forthcoming. Lastly, if you're
driving yourself, beware of buses and matatus and keep your distance
from them.
Buses, matatus and taxis
There's a whole range of public transport vehicles on Kenya's roads.
Alongside the flashy " video coaches " tearing up one or two of the main
highways, you'll find smaller " country bus " companies operating a
single battered Leyland. In towns of any size, a whole crowd of
minibuses, pick-ups and Peugeot taxis hustle for business constantly.
Fares vary a great deal according to the competition and the condition
of the road. There is also great variation in fares between the speed
and comfort of a Peugeot 504 station wagon and the grinding progress of
a clapped-out country bus. But fares in the latter type of vehicle can
still be little more than Ksh1 per kilometre and shouldn't be above Ksh3
per kilometre in a Peugeot except on short routes. This means that most
journeys of up to a day in length will cost under Ksh500 (£5/$7) and
quite often half this. Rarely will anyone attempt to charge you more
than the going rate. Baggage charges should not normally be levied
unless you're transporting a huge load, though enough touts will try and
convince you otherwise: if you get stuck, talk to other passengers (away
from the touts, who will usually intervene in Swahili and bribe the
passenger) to find out how much they paid.
It's worth considering your general direction through the trip and which
side will be shadier . This is especially important on dirt roads when
the combination of a slow, bumpy ride, dust and fierce sun through
closed windows can be horrible.
Trains
In the wake of a catastrophic train crash in March 1999 along the
Nairobi-Mombasa line, possibly caused by brake failure, the future of
passenger services on Kenya Railways was for a time uncertain. The
railways have been underfunded (or funds have been siphoned off) for
years, with the result that all passenger trains were halted in 2001
with the exception of the Nairobi-Mombasa service, which was reduced to
four trains a week. Services may be restored at some time in the future
between Nairobi and Kisumu, Kisumu and Butere, and even Nairobi and
Eldoret, but at present none are running, and there are no longer any
connections into Tanzania or Uganda (and not much remaining of their
rail services either).
the main draw for travellers is the four-times-weekly overnight
Nairobi-Mombasa run, which leaves in either direction at 7pm, to arrive
anytime between 8am and 10am the following morning. Frustrating though
the (almost routine) delays are, they at least mean you are likely to
have a couple of hours of morning light to watch the passing scene:
approaching Nairobi, the animals on the Athi Plains; approaching
Mombasa, the sultry crawl down from the Maungu Plains to the ocean.
If you need to check train schedules before leaving home, they can be
found in Thomas Cook's Overseas Train Timetable (the blue volume),
available at branches of Thomas Cook, and in most reference libraries.
Planes
Kenya has a number of reasonably priced internal services , and it's
well worth seeing the country from the air at least once; the flight
from Lamu to Malindi is an especially exotic and exhilarating one over
reefs and jungle.
Baggage allowances on internal flights, apart from Kenya Airways, are
usually under 20kg and may be as little as 10kg. Fortunately, the excess
baggage charges are nominal. There is an airport tax of Ksh300 on all
domestic flights, plus Ksh200 compulsory insurance, all usually included
in the fare.
Lastly, note that ordinary connecting times shouldn't be relied on if
you're flying to catch an international departure. Many of the cheaper
flight tickets to Europe cannot be endorsed to another airline if you
miss your flight, and domestic services are often delayed.
Ferries
There are no regular ferries up and down the coast, other than those
connecting the islands of the Lamu archipelago, but dhow journeys can be
negotiated, in particular between Shimoni and Pemba (Tanzania). On Lake
Victoria, the network of steamer routes was suspended when the lake
became clogged up with water hyacinth (which snarls up the propellers).
With the clearance of the hyacinth, services have resumed between
Kisumu, Homa Bay and Mbita, but there are no passenger services to
Uganda or Tanzania
Hitching
This is how the majority of rural people get around - by waving down a
vehicle - but they invariably pay, whether it's a bus, a matatu, a lorry
or a private vehicle with a spare place. Private vehicles, except on the
main Kisumu-Nairobi-Mombasa artery and one or two other routes, are
comparatively rare and usually full. Because of the cheapness of buses,
travellers don't try it much, but hitching can be a good change of pace,
enabling you to cover distances fast and usually in safety. Along the
coast, where there are relatively fewer matatus and more private cars,
it's often easy. More calculatingly, if you're on a low budget, hitching
rides with private cars can throw you in with Asians and Europeans,
often resulting in opportunities to visit national parks and reserves.
Hitching techniques need to be fairly exuberant; a modest thumb is more
likely to be interpreted as a friendly, or even rude, gesture than a
request for a lift. Beckon the driver to stop with your palm. And if you
genuinely can't afford to pay, say so right away; generosity will often
provide you a lift anyway.
Car rental and driving
Renting a car has advantages over any other means of transport, which
makes it seriously worth considering for a week or two. All the parks
and reserves are open to private and rented vehicles (as well as
organized tours), and there's a lot to be said for the freedom of choice
that having your own wheels gives you. Unless there are more than two of
you, though, it won't save you money over one of the cheaper camping
safaris. The minimum age is 23, sometimes 25.
Prices vary greatly, with some quoted in Kenyan shillings, though most
in dollars. It's often cheaper to rent by the week if you do enough
kilometres - reckon on driving an average of 1000km per week (around
600-700 miles).
Shop around for the best deals (making sure you're quoted the inclusive
price, including the minimum daily mileage) and try to negotiate as you
might with any purchase, bearing in mind the season (July, August and
Christmas are busy, so you might want to book ahead) and how long you're
renting. This is easier with independent companies than the big-name
franchises. Check the insurance details and always pay the daily
collision damage waiver (CDW) premium, sometimes included in the price;
even a small bump could be very costly otherwise. Theft protection
waiver (TPW) should also be taken. However, even with these, you'll
still be liable for excess liability , usually averaging $500-1000,
exceptionally as low as $75-100, and sometimes an astronomical $2000 (avoid
these companies), so always check the amount before taking a car. You're
also required to leave a hefty deposit, roughly equivalent to the
anticipated bill - credit cards are useful for this. Lastly, always
check whether VAT (eighteen percent) has to be added to the cost.
Cycling
Kenya's climate and varied terrain make it challenging cycling country.
If it appeals to you - whether you're a lycra-laminated pro or just use
a bike once in a while - it's one of the best ways of getting around.
With a bike, given time and average determination, you can get to parts
of the country that would be hard to visit by any other means except
perhaps on foot, and what would take several days to hike can be cycled
in a matter of hours. It's also one way you will get to see wildlife
outside the confines of the game parks. Most towns have bicycle shops
which sell both mountain bikes and the trusty Indian three-speed
roadsters - we've mentioned some of these in the Mombasa and Nairobi "Listings"
sections.
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