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KILIFI |
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Kenya's coastline was submerged in the recent geological past,
resulting in the creation of the islands and drowned river valleys - the
creeks - of today. KILIFI , a small but animated place, is on such a
creek. When the Portuguese knew it, Kilifi's centre was on the south
side of the creek and called Mnarani (still the name of the village on
that side). Together with Kitoka on the north side of Takaungu Creek,
and a settlement on the site of the present town of Kilifi, these three
constituted the "state" of Kilifi.
The town
With the building of the bridge in the 1980s, Kilifi's economy was dealt
a hard blow. All the creek-side trade made possible by the ferry's
endless delays and breakdowns ceased (the ferry itself is now a half-submerged
wreck), and many bars and hotelis , and half the town's lodgings, closed.
The town is draped along the north side of the creek to the east of the
bridge. If you're driving you'll probably pass it by; even most public
transport travellers only see it from the inside of a bus while more
fares are being picked up. But staying the night is not an unpleasant
prospect, and while there's not a lot of choice it's certainly a better
plan than arriving late in Malindi.
There are three banks in town (Barclays with an ATM, Postbank with
Western Union facilities, and KCB), and a post and telephone office (Mon-Fri
8am-12.30pm & 2-5pm) down near the market. Moving on , note that buses
to Lamu and Garissa pass by around 8am. There's lots of transport to
Mombasa or Malindi.
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