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NAROK |
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NAROK is the funnel through which almost all road transport enters
the Mara. It's the last place to get fuel, a cold drink or almost
anything for over 100km before you enter the reserve. First impressions
aren't encouraging. Afrikano , on the left as you enter from the east,
is a tourist trap of the first order, charging exorbitant prices for
curios, food and drinks. In the same vein, over the road, a brassy
atmosphere pervades the Kobil service station and snack bar which, being
the first petrol station on the way into town, waylays most of the
minibuses with its big-game cut-outs, reticulated sunshades and cluster
of souvenir shops selling very expensive Maasai paraphernalia (the same
stuff is half the price in Nairobi). If you need petrol, the Total
station on the far side of town is cheaper and less hassly. When buying
petrol, watch the pump counter carefully. If you're hitching , the Kobil
station is probably the best point to wait and ask. If the direct
approach doesn't appeal (there'll be plenty of refusals), try the bridge
over the Engare Narok River on the west side of town.
Petrol rip-offs, tourist bazaars and touts aside, Narok is actually
quite a lively little place, full of Maasai out shopping or doing
business at the market. There's also the small but perfectly formed
Narok Maa Cultural Museum (daily 9am-6pm; PO Box 868 Narok; provisional
tel 0305/22095; Ksh200), on the right as you come in, which is an
excellent introduction to the Maasai (and Samburu) way of life. The
walls have a fascinating collection of photographs taken by Maasai women,
using disposable cameras given to them for the project, depicting
important parts of their daily lives, such as water carrying, milking
cattle, and raising children. Considering that it was the first time
that any of the women had ever held a camera, the compositions are
extraordinarily well judged. The captions, too, are great: "This photo
is showing a bad thing. The women have to carry the heavy water
containers all the way. They have to walk for 30km to get water from the
wells, because there is no dam in the neighbourhood of their enkang "
and "This man is milking a cow that has just given birth. Normally I
should have done that. It is uncommon for men to milk - they only do it
when there are no women around." There are also black-and-white
portraits of Maasai taken by Joy Adamson in 1951, as well as helpfully
labelled everyday and magical artefacts (look out for the ovine chastity
belt, used when there's not much grazing, which puts a solid leather
barrier between the ram and his desire). For researchers, there's a
storage room containing many more artefacts, though it isn't officially
open to the public. There are advanced plans to move the museum to a
purpose-built site over on the west side of the river, which may include
a campsite.
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