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OLOITOKITOK |
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Branching off the C103 between the parks at Kimana, you can climb
south 15km up the slippery C102 to the Maasai country town of
OLOITOKITOK right on the border with Tanzania, with Kilimanjaro's jagged
satellite peak Mawenzi dead ahead. Oloitokitok (pronounced "Loytoktok")
should be nothing to get excited about - just an interesting, bustling
little town by the Amboseli-Tsavo circuit. But it is ignored by 99
percent of the tourist minibuses, and it's in a fabulous position,
closer to Kilimanjaro than anywhere else in Kenya and high above the
plains (altitude 1700m). It is a relaxed and recommended place to settle
into if you're interested in finding out more about the Maasai, as this
is their easternmost major centre. Oloitokitok is also a border crossing
for the Tanzanian town of Moshi a couple of hours away, nestled behind
the mountain. And it's close to Kilimanjaro's Kibo Peak, 25km as the
crow flies: you can arrange climbing tours up the mountain at Kibo
Slopes Cottages , and there are enough willing guides and porters in the
village, but don't get caught in Kilimanjaro National Park without
having paid the fee. The Tanzanians take the offence extremely seriously.
On Tuesdays and Saturdays, when many Maasai are in Oloitokitok centre
for the weekly markets , there's a fair amount of matatu traffic between
here and Emali, as well as a service to Taveta (some leave the day
before to get to Oloitokitok). At other times, you will have to take
potluck with transport - start early. Oloitokitok has a petrol station,
a post office and KCB bank (which takes ages to change money), as well
as a few B&Ls at the top of the hill near the market. Best of these is
the Christian-run Safari's Lodge (PO Box 291 tel 0302/22088; under
Ksh500). Otherwise, Hilltop Lodge (PO Box 59 tel 0302/22303; under
Ksh500) and Mawenzi Safari Inn (PO Box 365 tel 0302/22306; under
Ksh500), are both reasonable. Mwalimu Lodge in the lower part of town is
a serious watering hole. Superior to all is the modern Kibo Slopes
Cottages (PO Box 218 tel 0302/22091, fax 22427; B&B Ksh2000-4000), 1km
down a track to the left of the customs post, with good s/c rooms (hot
running water morning and evening), some with good views, but overpriced
unless you're in a larger group, when the four-bed cottages
(Ksh2000-4000) make sense.
On market days, you can catch a matatu-bus to the town of Taveta, almost
100km away near the southwestern tip of Tsavo West National Park. The
route, which skirts the border with Tanzania and the flanks of
Kilimanjaro, is far off the beaten track, but scenically rewarding, as
well as the shortest and fastest way to get from Amboseli to Voi on the
Mombasa Road. Even faster, and kinder to your vehicle if you're driving,
is the tarmac road on the Tanzanian side, but it's expensive if you
haven't got multiple-entry visas for both Tanzania and Kenya. On the
Kenyan side, the road is unsurfaced except for the first 9km of soothing
tarmac to Illasit (where the tarmac veers off right towards Tanzania:
keep going straight), and often becomes impassable in the rains when the
fine dust turns to mud. Leaving Oloitokitok, the landscape changes from
scrubby cattle pasture to neat - if dusty - plots of sisal and maize
plantations, marking the end of Maasai territory. There are only a few
settlements, acting as market centres for Maasai and Taveta
agriculturers, but the next accommodation is 58km away at Chumvini
(Njukini), where the dogged Gatanga Guest House (PO Box 53 Taveta tel
0149/2639; under Ksh500) has some basic non-s/c rooms, a down-at-heel
bar with funny murals, a butchery and nyama choma . From here, you'll
find more frequent transport on to Taveta (daily matatus, and buses on
Tues, Wed, Fri & Sun). Further on, 10km short of Taveta, is the
wonderful aberration of Lake Chala .
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